Today was highlighted by a visit to the famous Yu Gardens (see picture) and then back to the French Concession to see the Museum of Communist Youth. The Yu Garden is probably my favorite place in Shanghai right now not only because of the delicious street food, but also because of the bargaining that can go on at the bazaar. For some reason my Chinese ability escalates when I bargain and I am able to haggle down to fractions of the original price. For example, I saw this Soviet fighter pilot helmet that I really wanted for 480 yuan. I said that I would not pay that but to offer me the lowest price. The lady offered 280 because it was the “New Year.” I told her that was too expensive, but now I saw what I could probably get the helmet for. The typical math is to take what the price reduction is and divide it by 2, and then subtract that value from the price offered. If you are paying anything over that you are being ripped off. I offered 60 yuan (a general rule is to go less than half of what the calculated value would be: 480 – 280 = 200 / 2 = 100 so 280 – 100 = 180 / 2 = 90 so offer less than 90 to start.) However, I really did not have a place to keep the helmet on my trip to Kunming so I stayed at 60 and she would not go that low…oh well. The Yu Garden, however, is magnificent. It is built into natural stone formations and constructs its buildings around the streams so that the buildings stay cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Most of the construction took place during the Ming Dynasty but a reconstruction during the Qing Dynasty has allowed many of the structures to stay intact. After the Yu Garden and a delicious lunch of clams fried up in egg with a spicy sauce I headed to the French Concession. I really enjoy b=visiting the French Concession because of all the history that exists in its old streets. It reminds me of an Annapolis with a much more recent and profound history of revolution.
I also took a trip to the Lu Xun Park (next to the Hong Kou Football (Soccer not the real Football) Stadium (see picture). The park contains Lu Xun’s former residence and another museum dedicated to his work. I sat in the park for a few hours and read his book and watched numerous Chinese people perform Tai Chi, dancing, and singing. Parks are much more important for social gatherings in China than they are in the United States. No matter what time of day you can always find people.
The next day I went into the center of the city at the People’s Square. Billy and I went to lunch at a hot pot restaurant. Hot pot is like Chinese fondue and you are given a bowl of boiling soup to cook your meat and vegetables in. It is a famous Chinese style meal and I have heard Yunan is famous for it so I will have to try some when I go to Kunming in a few days. Billy and I met his friend from work at the restaurant and after that we went to the City Planning Museum. This building is dedicated to the history of Shanghai as a developing city from early Ming to right now and beyond. The exhibits showed the earliest fishing houses along the coast to the future construction of the world’s largest building right next to the Jinmao and IFC and a deep water port that will open up trade to larger vessels. By far the coolest thing at the museum was the 30 yard by 30 yard detailed model of Shanghai (see pictures). Another interesting thing I noticed was the way the museum displays referred to the Foreign Concession areas. As you know, I always visit the French Concession which was an area of Shanghai surrendered to the French after what the Chinese call a series of “unfair” treaties. Other areas were conceded to the Americans and British in the 1800s and remained under foreign control until the end of WWII. From what I know about American history and WWII history is that after defeating Japan we gave the land back to China, but what the museum claims is that China “won back the land after victory in the War against Japanese Aggression.” It is an interesting look and just reminds us all that history is truly “HIS” – Story, as in the story is based on who is telling it.
The day was capped off at the Shanghai Art Museum where they had an exhibit on ethnic minority art (see picture). It was just like any other art museum, but with different forms of art. I noticed a lot of wood carvings and calligraphy and less traditional canvas and paint artwork. I took a picture of my favorite work because I think it would be a cool symbol for a team or a unit. It is a nomad sitting on his horse with his gun draped over his shoulder. His face is dark and you cannot make out his features but he reminds me of a Rough Rider or a Marine Corps Raider, so I took the picture in case I get to suggest the logo for a unit or team one day.
After Billy and his friend went to go to family things for the New Year, I grabbed dinner at a duck restaurant and had another problem with ordering food. I take most of the responsibility this time, but I was still mad nonetheless. I asked the waiter where the roast duck was on the menu, he pointed to a page and I said “OK.” The price was 168 yuan and I was not about to spend that on myself, so I proceeded to order fried pork, cabbage, and some soup. In a few minutes my meal arrived. I began to eat and was feeling quite comfortably full when a whole roast duck came out with the tortillas, duck sauce, and veggies. I guess the waiter took my “OK,” as “I will have that,” instead of complaining I took it as a personal challenge. I could tell people were looking at me because my table was literally covered with food, but I began to dive into the duck, set on finishing it. Thirty minutes later it was all gone, I consumed a New Year’s meal by myself! I just wish the restaurant had a contest like “Whole Duck Challenge – finish a whole duck and it is free!” There was no contest here so I paid for the duck and my meal. Needless to say, I was pretty full.
Tomorrow I do not have much of a plan besides taking an easy Sunday and hanging out with Billy. I have done almost all the tourist-y things you could imagine in Shanghai, and tomorrow I am getting up at 5 am to go to a sports bar to watch the Steelers play at 7 am. The bar has breakfast at 6 am so I am excited to hopefully get some waffles, pancakes, and bacon for the first time in a month.
I hope the pancakes, waffles and sausage tasted good to you.
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